Shakotan’s Undersea Columnar Joints and Hokkaido’s Marine Life

By car from Sapporo, the Shakotan Sea is 1 hour and 30 minutes by car. The scenic spot called the “Shakotan Blue” is famous for the high transparency of the water. The columnar joint formations look like underwater ruins, which are very famous.

Columnar formations are polygonal columnar fissures caused by volumetric contraction as the magma solidifies and then cools. It is a manifestation of the Pacific “Ring of Fire,” also known as the “volcanic archipelago.”

Looking up at the sea’s surface from the columnar joints.

This point of the columnar joint is called the “hidden root of Biyano.” The depth here is about 25 meters, and it is too bad that it’s barely visible from the glass bottom boat.

Heading towards the sites along the coastline. Diving the strait was blessed with good weather. When I visited in September, there wasn’t much marine life to see then…but I was able to see wonderful “Hokkaido’s sea creatures on the Sea of Japan side” with wonderful guides.

Ishikawa Sculpin Furcina ishikawae

Nijikajika Alcichthys elongatus

Pietsch Sculpin (Himefutasjikajika) Icelinus pietschi

Akiginpo Chirolophis saitone

Far Eastern Shrimp Pandalus prensor Stimpson. Beautiful blue speckles. If eating it raw, it tastes like sweet pink shrimp.

Common Sunstar Crossaster papposus. There are many legs, just like sunrays.

When you take a macro shot, it looks like a flower garden.

The coastal area’s rock walls which are carved by the waves, are a treasure trove for macro photography.

The kelp was a bit wilted, but the coral and kelp were beautiful.

Unfortunately, I could not eat the sea urchin because fishing was prohibited from August 31st. I decided to revisit Shakotan again in the future.

Image & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Sep 2022、Shakotan, Hokkaido

*Contact  us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.

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The Sea of Izu Oshima: The Underwater Geopark (2)

Diving in Izu Oshima. The special here is that you can see Hammerhead sharks by the beach dives.

Dive in Izu Oshima| Hammerhead shark  Izu Oshima Diving

This is the entry point of the lava coast, a trail made from the lava flow that is a maze-like diving path. This is where you can see where the namesake “Underwater Geopark” comes from.

Underwater Geopark,Keikai Beach, Izuoshima, 海底ジオパークのようなケイカイを行くオーナー

I was diving in the path formed by the lava flow. This was right at daybreak, the sea is still quite dark.

ハンマーヘッドシャーク ケイカイ浜 伊豆大島 Hammerhead Shark Izu Oshima keikai Beach (4)

As soon as we were in the water, we could see the hammerhead sharks. They appeared, one after the other, in a group of 5 and then up to 30 individuals. At about 15m (50ft) depth, we could feel the current of the tide coming on but I was clinging to a rock to keep observing the sharks. Even beginners, could have a good chance to see the sharks here so it is a really great spot!

ハンマーヘッドシャーク ケイカイ浜 伊豆大島 Hammerhead Shark Izu Oshima keikai Beach (3)

Hammerheads were coming straight towards us. And boy were they close!

ハンマーヘッドシャーク ケイカイ浜 伊豆大島 Hammerhead Shark Izu Oshima keikai Beach (2)

Every morning, immediately after the sunrise is the best chance to encounter these hammerhead sharks. They are seen in the area from mid-June to mid-October, and we went diving 3 times, and saw them each time.

ハンマーヘッドシャーク ケイカイ浜 伊豆大島 Hammerhead Shark Izu Oshima keikai Beach

Perhaps they are aiming for the first meal of the day at some first class feeding spot, rising from the depths along with the rising sun?

お祝いの飾り、ハンマーヘッドシャーク 100本記念ケーキ

This was a little cake decoration to commemorate the 100th dive of one of our tour members. It was an image of the “Keikai’s Hammerheads” handmade for them by the Saiyu staff.

 

Image & text : Mariko SAWADA

Observation : Sep 2021, Keikai Beach, Izu-oshima, Tokyo, JAPAN

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Sea of Izu Oshima・The Undersea Geopark(1)

This is my report of diving in Izu Oshima. You can get there by jet foil boat in only 2 hours and is so surprising that it is this close to Metropolitan Tokyo.

It is a paradise for various sea creatures, which is great for photographers. The first thing we wanted to see was the Hammerhead Shark in the early morning hours, but I could also observe other things at the diving spots “Ou no hama 王の浜 (Kings Beach)” and “Aki no hama 秋の浜(Autumn Beach)”.

伊豆大島ダイビング Diving at Izu-oshima 王の浜のケヤリ (3)

This is a type of seaweed called ”KEYARI” in local language, Sporochnus radiciformis that we saw from “King’s Beach 王の浜”.  It is a popular subject for photo enthusiasts because of its beautiful peacock-like feathers, if you can manage to creatively get the right angle with some technique. It is widely distributed in the Japan sea, but it is said that the areas where the Kuroshio current passes through are more colorful.

ケヤリとテンクロスジギンポ Piano fanglenny 伊豆大島ダイビング Diving at Izu-oshima 王の浜(1)

Then this Piano Fangblenny who shares the area with the S. radiciformis. These little fish are found on the Pacific side of Japan and are only about 10 cm (4 inches) long. I saw in the same place, two times, but it never showed its entire body. This pose, poking it’s face out and with the S. radiciformis in the background was irresistibly cute.

テングダイ 王の浜 伊豆大島ダイビング Diving at Izu-oshima (2)

At “Ou no hama 王の浜” (King’s Beach), we also saw the Banded Boar head, a fish that stands out and grows to about 50 cm (20 inches). These were quite accustomed to divers.

テングダイのアゴヒゲ 伊豆大島ダイビング Diving at Izu-oshima 王の浜

Like Long barbeled grunter, it has fine whiskers on its lower jaw, which are said to be skin protrusions.

コケギンポ 伊豆大島ダイビング Diving at Izu-oshima 王の浜

Just as I was leaving the King’s Beach 王の浜, I stopped at this structure “Rock of Moss Fringehead.” This super cute and tiny collection of Moss Fringehead captured many divers attention and we were all trying to get a good photo while being swayed by the waves and current.

ムチカラマツ類とガラスハゼ

It was “Aki no hama 秋の浜 (Autumn Beach)” where I could observe the most variety creatures (it is also popular with other divers because of the easy access point).
This is a Whip coral goby attached to the whip coral.

ニシキフウライウオの伊豆大島ダイビング Diving at Izu-oshima 秋の浜 (2)

And diving to a deeper level, this Harlequin ghost pipefish could be seen. It’s hard to see because it’s camouflaged to look like the coral!

ニシキフウライウオの伊豆大島ダイビング Diving at Izu-oshima 秋の浜 (1)

The male Harlequin ghost pipefish mimics the coral almost exactly. They are a member of the Solenostomidae family, and was previously thought to be an intraspecific mutation, but in 1994, they were named as a separate species.

ニシキフウライウオのペア伊豆大島ダイビング Diving at Izu-oshima 秋の浜

This is a pair of Harlequin ghost pipefish. The female is pregnant, carrying the eggs in her belly.

ナンヨウハギ

The babies of the Palette surgeonfish.

オルトマンワラエビ 秋の浜

Ortmann’s spider-crab.

トラウツボ Dragon Moray 伊豆大島ダイビング 秋の浜 Diving at Izu-oshima (2)

Then, according to our guide Mr. Furuyama, the first thing that foreign divers request to see is this Dragon Moray Eel.

トラウツボ Dragon Moray 伊豆大島ダイビング 秋の浜 Diving at Izu-oshima

The Japanese name of this fish is “TORA-UTSUBO”, translated as Tiger moray eel. To me, it doesn’t look like a “tiger”, (the pattern seems more like a leopard), and the name “Dragon” seems accurate. But perhaps the most accurate description could be the “Qilin” which appears in Chinese mythology?

Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Sep 2021, Izu-oshima, Tokyo, JAPAN

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The White-Spotted Pufferfish Circle Formation(Amami Oshima)

These “Mysterious Underwater Circles” of Amami Oshima became a hot topic when a TV program introducing them was broadcasted. Originally found by an underwater photographer in 1995, he didn’t know who made them and for what purpose they were there. It was in 2011, that we finally discovered that it was made by small pufferfish.

The Amami Oshima’s “Mysterious Underwater Circle” is often made nearly 30m deep, so it is hard to observe for long at that depth; and the seasons and tides limit the divers’ abilities to observe these circles, so it took 16 years before we were able to meet its creator, the pufferfish.

This is the male pufferfish, Torquigener albomaculosus, the creator of the circle. In 2014, this pufferfish was registered as a new species. The Japanese name “Amami Hoshizorafugu” is named so because of the dotted pattern on its back, like the many stars in the beautiful night sky of Amami Oshima. (In Japanese “Hoshizora”= starlit night sky, “fugu” = pufferfish)

We observed this white-spotted pufferfish over five days, as it was constructing the circle. In this photo, the pufferfish is decorating the outer edge of the circle with shells. It seems that the fish shapes the shell by chewing on a larger shell in its mouth.

The first step in creating the circle, is for the pufferfish to choose a spot that it likes and begin by removing and seaweed from the area. Then it will make a groove which will be the basis of the circle. For the making of the outer circle, the groove is formed by the small fish using its pectoral fins to roll up the sand moving from side to side. Slowly, the sand is piled up on both sides to form a deeper groove.

The center of the circle, where the eggs will be laid, is made into a gentle shallow area using its stomach.

White-spotted pufferfish which has finally finished making its circle. But even then, it’s very busy with maintenance to keep the shape.

Now it is just a waiting game, until a female pufferfish comes by and likes his circle!

At this time in May 2022, during high tide there were seven circles in the diving area. This morning, one male had success as there were some eggs in the middle of the circle! The gray color mass in the middle of the photo are the eggs.

As soon as the female lays the eggs, she disappears and the male will take care of the eggs in his circle. He will consistently move the eggs and sand with its fins and continue to send them fresh seawater.

A male white-spotted pufferfish who is busy taking care of his eggs. The maintenance of the circle stops and therefore the shape is starting to collapse a little.

So, in this 30m deep area where we were diving, we could see 6 of the 7 circles had eggs. But the one that had no eggs yet, which we nicknamed “Fuguta,” this was the circle that I thought was “the most beautiful and splendid circle” but sadly, it wasn’t chosen by a female pufferfish. I am sure there is a difference between the pufferfish and our senses, but even so, I was disappointed that it was not selected…it was like a Japanese saying that “it was the crowd favorite, but it failed to qualify for the finals.”

Our little “Fuguta,” who was dedicated to the maintenance of his circle. He was laboring over it, however, he wasn’t as energetic as yesterday.

“Fuguta” would not give up! The breeding season will continue for another two months. I left the seabed praying for him, that he’ll be able to attract another female during the next high tide.

Of the 15 dives over a 5 day period, 10 dives were spent observing the white-spotted pufferfish. We observed all the various stages from circle construction, the maintenance, and then of taking care of the eggs. It looks a very smart fish.

Photos & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: May 2022, Amami Oshima
Special Thanks: Dive Species Amami, Mr. Homare SUWA

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(Video) It’s Bigeye Trevally Season! Aguni Island

粟国島 ギンガメトルネード AGUNI DIVE IN JAPAN

In May, I visited the Aguni Islands for the bigeye trevally season. We not only got to see schools of bigeye<GINGAME-AJI> making a tornado of fish, we also got to see the giant trevally <ROUNIN-AJI>as well as school of dogtooth tuna<ISO-MAGURO>. There were breeding colored bigeye trevally and the sea was bursting full of life!

DIVE IN AGUNI ISLAND 粟国島の海

Image & text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: May 2021, Aguni Island, Okinawa

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Sand Tiger Shark (Ogasawara Island: Chichijima)

小笠原 二見湾の沈船のシロワニ (7) Sand Tiger Shark - Bonin Island Japan

When talking about “Scuba diving in Ogasawara Island,” it is almost synonymous as saying “Sand Tiger Sharks.” (shirowani in Japanese). They are bottom dwellers, normally found in small caves but encountering them in a shipwreck dive is quite dramatic.

In Chichijima -Futami Bay, there are many ships that were attacked during World War II. Just diving around these wrecksites can be impressive enough by itself, but add in a sand tiger shark or two and it becomes exceptional.

Sand Tiger Shark at Shipwreck, Bonin island Japan|西遊旅行

There are many different ways that the ships may have ended up on the bottom; some have fallen apart as they sank after having been hit directly, some that sank in their original upright position, and yet others that are completely on their side when they sank to the seafloor.

Sand Tiger Sharks have their favorite places where they like to hang out, and sometimes we got to see more than one at a time!

小笠原 二見湾の沈船のシロワニ (3) Sand Tiger Shark - Bonin Island Japan

The sharks swam over me slowly and it really gave me the chills! I want to keep watching this scene, but I must get ready to surface. We are in the deep water, so we cannot linger here too long and must start making our slow ascent back up to the surface.

小笠原 二見湾の沈船のシロワニ (4) Sand Tiger Shark - Bonin Island Japan

Our last moments with the Sand tiger shark!

小笠原 二見湾の沈船のシロワニ (8) Sand Tiger Shark - Bonin Island Japan

This was the last one we saw, who was swimming among the Striped jack. Right after we saw this Shark, we returned to the surface.

Image & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Oct 2020, Chichijima, Futami Bay, Ogasawara Islands

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Banded Pipefish Incubating Their Eggs (Yakushima)

オイランヨウジ Banded pipefish 屋久島 (1)

We observed this pair of Banded pipefish in Yakushima’s Isso bay. The pipefish have a white body with many reddish-brown horizontal stripes that cover it from the mouth to the tail fin. The gorgeous tail fin reminds me of the beautiful “Oiran” that Japanese high-ranking courtesans use.

オイランヨウジのペア(屋久島)A Pair of Ringed pipefish

オイランヨウジ Banded pipefish 屋久島 (6)

The male banded pipefish has a pouch that incubates the eggs. There can be up to 100 eggs which hatch after about 10 days. The fries are about 6mm when they emerge.

オイランヨウジ Banded pipefish 屋久島 (3)

Banded pipefish eat zooplankton. The entrance to this pair’s rock crevice was surrounded by little tiny fries and they were busy feeding on them.

 

Image & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Jun 2021, Yakushima, Kagoshima

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Harlequin Ghost Pipefish(Yakushima)

ニシキフウライウオ Harlequin ghost pipefish 屋久島 (6)

We could see a pair of Harlequin ghost pipefish (Solenostomus paradoxus) in the seas around Yakushima. The pair were in perfect unison with their mimicry, which made it both astounding and beautiful to watch.

ニシキフウライウオのペア(屋久島)A pair of Harlequin ghost pipefish

Harlequin ghost pipefish is a member of the family Solenostomidae. The Solenostomus were previously thought to be an intraspecific mutation within Solenostomidae but, they became an independent species in 1994.

ニシキフウライウオ Harlequin ghost pipefish 屋久島 (9)

On every part of the body and along its fins, there are spikes that stick out, with spotted patterns as well. The body is a white color with some transparent areas, but the designs and patterns that appear are so diverse!

ニシキフウライウオ Harlequin ghost pipefish 屋久島 (5)

The larger one is the female, and the smaller one on the right is the male. Unlike the pipefish, where the males incubate the eggs, in family Solenostomidae, they leave the job of protecting the fertilized eggs to the females with the larger pectoral fins.

In English, the name of the fish is “Harlequin ghost pipefish” or “Ornate ghost pipefish,” but in Japanese they are called “Nishiki fuurai-uo.” “Nishiki” refers to a traditional Japanese weaving textile, highlighting the intricate designs seen on this unique fish.

 

Image & text : Mariko SAWADA

Observation : Jun 2021, Isso-bay, Yakushima, Kagoshima

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(Video) An Asian Sheepshead Wrasse Named “Yoriko” in Hasama’s Underwater Park (Tateyama, Chiba)

館山 TATEYAMA diving 頼子 Yoriko コブダイ Asian sheepshead wrasse (2)

The Hasama Underwater Park is located just on the border between Tokyo Bay and the Pacific Ocean, and it is within 2 hours travel time from the city center. The Underwater Park is rich with fish because of the input of nutrition from the freshwater rivers and the Kuroshio Current running along the coast of Japan. This place is quite famous for the underwater shrine Torii and ‘Yoriko’ the Asian sheepshead wrasse.

YORIKO Asian sheepshead wrasse コブダイの頼子・波左間海中公園

The Asian sheepshead wrasse is called “Kobudai” in Japanese (as if it was a member of the Sea Bream family), it is a member of the wrasse family, and is a “hermaphroditic” species which can change sex between male and female. It first matures as a female and breeds, then changes sex to a male and participates in breeding again.

This “Yoriko” used to be a female paired with a male named “Yoritomo,” but one day “Yoritomo” disappeared perhaps because he lost the battle for territory. Following that development, “Yoriko” then became a male and has stayed that way to the present day. The lifespan of the Kobudai is thought to be about 20 years long, but “Yoriko” has already exceeded 30 years of age. He has come to be a very cherished and well-loved fish at the Hasama Underwater Park and taken on a mystic-natured creature who time has forgotten.

館山 TATEYAMA diving 頼子 Yoriko コブダイ Asian sheepshead wrasse

This is the famous underwater shrine, the only kind in the world, in the Hasama Underwater Park. It is an authentic shrine that was built in 1997 as a branch of the Susaki Shrine in Tateyama.

館山 TATEYAMA diving Seapen ヤナギウミエラ (2)

Another famous place in the Hasama Underwater Park is the “Sea Pen Colony” (in Japanese it is called ‘Yanagi-umiera’). It was the first time I could see these! Depending on the tide, it may or may not appear on the surface of the sand, so I felt so lucky to see the colony. The English name “Sea pen” is because of the resemblance to a Quill pen!

館山 TATEYAMA diving Seapen ヤナギウミエラ

A colony of the Sea Pens Virgularia halisceptrum .

館山 TATEYAMA diving dream

There are many other areas for great fish sightings as well. There is a fish-reef called “Dream” where the scenery created by the soft corals and Sea goldie, as well as Redbar anthias and Cooper’s Fairy Basslets. 。

館山 TATEYAMA diving タカノハダイのクリニーニングステ-ション

This is the Spottedtail morwong cleaning station. The name for the fish in Japanese is “Takanoha dai” derived from the Japanese word for “Hawk feather” which is “Taka no ha.” This is based on the similarity of the stripes that are seen on hawk feathers, The polka dots on the tail also really catch my attention.

館山 TATEYAMA diving 仲がいいミギマキ

Here is a friendly pair of redlip morwongs.

Image: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Jun 2021, Hasama Marine Park, Tateyama, CHIBA

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(Video) Hammerhead Sharks of the Yonaguni Island

与那国ハンマー Yonaguni Hammerhead sharks Diving at Yonaguni Island (2)

Japan’s westernmost island is the Yonaguni Island. It is said that on a good visibility day in the summertime, you can see all the way to Taiwan. One of the things that make Yonaguni famous, are the schools of Hammerhead Sharks that can be observed here while diving.

We visited  early April, which is the end of the hammerhead season, so we thought it would be difficult to encounter them, but we were able to see many schools multiple times.

Yonaguni Island’s Hammerhead Sharks 与那国島のハンマーヘッドシャーク

与那国ハンマー Yonaguni Hammerhead sharks Diving at Yonaguni Island (1)

An unexpected encounter with a large school of hammerheads.

与那国ハンマー Yonaguni Hammerhead sharks Diving at Yonaguni Island (4)

The hammerhead sharks at Yonaguni Island are all females and are generally calm and do not bite. Usually, they are found swimming at a depth of 35m to 40m, but this time we could encounter them at a relatively shallow depth of 25m to 30m.

与那国ハンマー Yonaguni Hammerhead sharks Diving at Yonaguni Island (3)

Of course, while diving, we also visited the ‘Yonaguni Underwater Monument.’What looks like a terrace cut at right angles, looks man-made, but the natural formation is not actually a ruin. It is found in a spot that has a fast moving tide.

与那国合宿 (4)

We stayed at Guesthouse FIESTA, where the owner prepared a wonderful BBQ for us.

与那国合宿 (3)

The Yonaguni marlin are also famous. There are also many fishing boats that mainly target the marlin. We could get some fresh sashimi from the local Kinjo Tackel Shop. During our stay, we could also enjoy the fresh greater amberjack and green jobfish

与那国合宿 (2)

We also had some locally produced ‘Island tofu (Shima tofu)’ cold and the last of the seasonal ‘Island Coriander/cilantro (shima pakuchii).’

与那国合宿 (1)

This baby goat isn’t on the menu! This is the 2-month old goat of the Dive Shop Marlin, and it has been guaranteed the lucky designation as a lifelong pet.

Image & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Apr 2021, Yonaguni Island, Okinawa
Special Thanks: Yonaguni Diving Service MARLIN, Guesthouse FIESTA

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