Shiretoko Peninsula: Brown Bears and Whales Drifting Ashore

Our guestouse in Rausu, Shiretoko Serai’s nature guide, Shohei Morita wrote a report from the 2021 Summer Season!

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This year I could see many brown bears!

Along the Shiretoko Pass which connects Rausu to Utoro, I could see brown bears many times along the way. Due to the pandemic and its effects, this year the tourists coming to Shiretoko Peninsula was much less than usual, so we had less traffic, compared to before.

Also, I could see many brown bears on the boat cruises that leave from Rausu’s Aidomari fishing port. We used the small boat that is usually used for Kelp farming, and I was able to get this shot of the bear from the boat. From summer to autumn, brown bears are attracted to the small rivers along the coast to catch the salmon run.

A bear with a salmon

Year after year, the number of salmon are decreasing while the number of fishermen continues to increase. This makes the situation difficult and a lot of stress on the bears. But despite that, I saw a momma bear teaching her cub how to catch salmon.

There was an unusual encounter with the carcass of a whale washed ashore, and the brown bears gathered around it. It is said that it has been more than 10 years since a large whale had been washed ashore.

It is a large whale, perhaps either a fin whale or a humpback whale.

This is a mother bear with her two cubs who had been born this year. This year’s bad fishing year made the national news, but locally, for the fisherman and especially for the brown bears, it was a big blow. I just hope that this abnormal situation in the sea will end as soon as possible, and that there can be a return of the “Rich seas of Shiretoko.”
And I hope that these two cubs can survive the winter.

Photo & text: Shohei MORITA (Shiretoko Serai)
Observation: Summer – Autumn 2021, Rausu, Shiretoko, Hokkaido

*Contact  us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.

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Rausu : Where the Killer Whales Gather

The 2021 Report from the Summer Season is here! Written by Shiretoko Serai (Our guesthouse in Rausu)’s  Nature Guide, Kaito Imahori.

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There were more than 100 Killer Whales that visited Rausu. The Nemuro Strait, located between Rausu and Kunashiri Island, has had multiple families of whales visit every year starting from around May, to the end of July. The latest research suggests that the Nemuro Strait, may perhaps be a meeting place for the different groups so they can look for future partners.

アイパッチの目尻がたれ下がった定住型と呼ばれる魚食のグループ

This is a resident pod that is fishing together, which have downward pointing white patches around their eyes.

In the beginning of June 2021, I was able to observe a significant and amazing sight! We found a family pod of three mothers with a newborn child, near Rausu Port. While running side by side with this group in the sightseeing boat, I saw many unusual behaviors, such as a mother swimming upside down to feed her baby breast milk, just near the boat.

I also encountered another great scene this year. It was in mid-June, when I could see a gathering of 4 family groups at once, perhaps they were in the process of mating, but the males were swimming upside down with their penis out, courting the females from the other pod.

Even though I could not capture it in a photo, there was also another event worth noting that happened in late July. There were 2 white killer whales, a male and a female who appeared at the same time, which became major news. There are only a few places in the world where you can observe whales so closely, but it is because so many whales gather in Rausu, that you might see such unique and rare scenes like these.

Photo & text: Kaito Imahori (Shiretoko Serai)
Observation: Jun 2021, Rausu, Shiretoko, Hokkaido

*Contact  us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.

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(Video) A Baby Sperm Whale Came to Play With Us! (Ogasawara)

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (2)

In October, we encountered a baby sperm whale off the coast of Chichijima in Ogasawara. It seemed like the calf was a bit upset, but also a bit curious about the ship. Everyone on the ship was very excited to see it!

Ogasawara A Baby Sperm Whale Came to Play With Us!

 

Image & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Oct 2020, Chichijima, Ogasawara Islands
Special Thanks: FISH EYE

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Winter On The Notsuke Peninsula, The Freezing Rain and Ezo Sika Deer

雨氷 野付半島 Ezo Sika Deer (4)

In February, the Notsuke Peninsula had an ice storm. When air temperatures drop below freezing and the ice rain, water droplets are super-cooled and ice can form on impact with the surface like trees. This ice from the freezing rain will cover and harden any exposed surfaces to make a clear ice called glaze ice. On the sunny days, when the sunlight reflects off the glaze ice, it can be so beautiful.

雨氷 野付半島 (1)

Glaze ice on the branches of the trees.

雨氷 野付半島 (3)

It is like being in an art gallery.

雨氷 野付半島 サンセット (1)

The branches covered in glaze ice.

雨氷 野付半島 Ezo Sika Deer (3)

An Ezo sika deer in the early morning ice.

雨氷 野付半島 Ezo Sika Deer (1)

The winter sika deer are looking so soft with their hair puffed out. Especially their fluffy white butt is so cute.

雨氷 野付半島 Ezo Sika Deer (2)

A herd of Sika deer on the Notsuke Peninsula covered with the freezing rain.

エゾシカ 野付半島

After dusk, the herd of male sika deer appeared in the field of snow and ice. It was a beautiful sunset, and I stayed there to watch until it got dark.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Feb 2016 , Notsuke Peninsula, Hokkaido

*Contact  us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.

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A Sperm Whale Calf Approached The Ship! (Ogasawara Islands)

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (2)

The water of Chichi-jima (Father Island) in the Ogasawara Islands, at depth of 1,500-2,000meters, are known as a place where female sperm whales with their calves observed throughout the year.

Having said that, it is best to visit this area when the seas are calmer, usually from July to October.

In October, on a day when the conditions were favorable, we headed to the whale watching area off Chichi-jima. We were lucky to encounter a group shortly after we started our search. Each of the groups was made up of 3 to 6 individuals.
Then, we found a lone calf by itself, patiently waiting for its mom, who had gone for a dive into the deep sea.

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (5)

The baby looks as if it is flying, with such clear water. The calf’s body was a lighter color, but it had the typical wrinkles primarily seen on Sperm Whales, along with some scars of bitemarks from the cookie-cutter sharks.

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (4)

This young sperm whale, swimming upside down towards our boat, was so close, that we could actually hear the “talking” clicking sounds on our ship!

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (3)

We could so clearly see the lower jaw of the whale!!!

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (8)

We parted for a little, but then it returned, approaching the boat again. This time with its mouth open.

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (13)

This is the calf with its mouth wide open. We could clearly hear the clicking sounds again.

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (12)

Amazingly, it flattened its fins and rotated while swimming into the edge of the ship, making the suckerfish scuttle around. Perhaps this was an offensive ?

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (6)

A sperm whale swimming towards the direction of Chichi-jima.

小笠原 父島 マッコウクジラ マッコウクジラの子供 Bonin Island Sperm Whale (1)

This young sperm whale also came up alongside our ship, raised its face and seemed to look up over at the top of our boat.
The youngster seemed to enjoy spending time with us and then, eventually left and swam back to its mother and the family.

In Ogasawara, you can see these groups of females with their calves, but I wonder if we could ever see a male that comes to have mate someday? It would be such a dream to be able to see a male sperm whale in such clear water like this!

Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Oct 2020, Chichijima, Ogasawara Islands
Special Thanks: FISH EYE

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Beyond Cape Shiretoko: Mother and cub brown bears of Shiretoko Peninsula

知床半島のヒグマ Ezo-Brownbear Shiretoko 親子ヒグマ (4)

On a nice calm day, with no wind or waves, we cruised from Aidomari around Cape Shiretoko in search of brown bears just before Rusha river in Shari town.

天神さんの船で岬を越える

Now we are starting to see Cape Shiretoko! While on the cruise, depending on the location, the weather and conditions can change suddenly with wind and waves. On this day, Shiretoko was “stable”, but there was some waves along the way, since we were on an extended cruise.

知床岬の灯台

This is the Shiretoko Misaki lighthouse. After passing that point, we entered the Sea of Okhotsk where usually there is a significant difference in the sea conditions between the Rausu and Shari sides, which are separated by the Shiretoko mountain range. However, it was a calm and sunny day on both sides.

The Cape Shiretoko has a plateau at 30-40m high, but the vegetation there was cut in the pioneering days, has never returned. There is also a factor that the Ezo-sika deer population has increased too much and is ruining the vegetation. The area from the central part to the northern part of Shiretoko Peninsula became a national park in 1964 and was later designated as World Heritage Site in 2005. Currently power boats are not allowed on land, but you can observe the landscape and wildlife from boats along the coast.

廃屋となった番屋

Same as on the Rausu side, there are abandoned fishing houses “banya” along the coast on the Shari side as well. The terrain on the Shari side makes it much more challenging for humans to reach.

知床半島のヒグマ Ezo-Brownbear Shiretoko 親子ヒグマ (3)

Found them…the Brown bear mother and her cub.

知床半島のヒグマ Ezo-Brownbear Shiretoko 親子ヒグマ (5)

The cute scene of a baby bear trying to keep up with the mother bear.

知床半島のヒグマ Ezo-Brownbear Shiretoko 親子ヒグマ (2)

This little cub is just as curious about us. Since we perhaps were catching their attention too much, so we moved away from the coast and made our way towards the mountains.

知床半島のヒグマ Ezo-Brownbear Shiretoko 親子ヒグマ (6)

Another pair of bears. This mother had walking with her a very young cub.

知床半島のヒグマ Ezo-Brownbear Shiretoko 親子ヒグマ (7)

The mother bear makes her way up the slope while eating grass. And two little cubs trying to keep up.

知床半島のヒグマ Ezo-Brownbear Shiretoko 親子ヒグマ (9)

Looks like they are a bit worried about the boat, and I apologized to them for interrupting them.

Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Aug 2020, Shiretoko Peninsula
Special Thanks : Mr.Koichi TENJIN, Mr.Shohei MORITA (Shiretoko Serai知床サライ)

*Contact  us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.

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Pink Salmon Swimming Upstream : Autumn on the Shiretoko Peninsula

カラフトマス 知床半島 秋 遡上 Pink Salmon run Shiretoko Peninsula (3)

Pink Salmon, called “Kurafuto masu” in Japanese, return to the rivers on the Shiretoko Peninsula. These salmon came from the rivers and migrated out into the Northern seas for about two years; then return to their natal rivers to spawn.

These salmon just in front of me are on the verge of death. The Pink Salmon embody the very raw ‘act of living’ in their tattered appearance. We, who eat these salmon, must have gratitude in our hearts.

Salmon Run- Pink Salmon Going Upstream in the Fall in Shiretoko Peninsula

Compared to other salmon species, the Pink Salmon do not have a strong “Homing Instinct” and will swim upstream of any freshwater rivers nearby. In the year this video was filmed (2016), the peninsula had experienced 3 typhoons in mid-August. This had caused the salmon net that had been set along the coast to come loose, and it enabled a large number of salmon to make it upstream.

カラフトマス 知床半島 秋 遡上 Pink Salmon run Shiretoko Peninsula (1)

Pink Salmon that were caught in the net.

カラフトマス 知床半島 秋 遡上 Pink Salmon run Shiretoko Peninsula (4)

This is the mass of Pink salmon gathered at the bottom of a waterfall. Their dorsal fins are sticking out from the surface of the water.

カラフトマス 知床半島 秋 遡上 Pink Salmon run Shiretoko Peninsula (2)

A Pink salmon trying to swim up the waterfall.

知床半島 羅臼のヒグマ 秋  (2)

A Brown bear that has caught a salmon. This is the time of year that the brown bears are the thinnest and can be seen desperately chasing the Pink salmon.

 

Image & text: Mariko SAWADA
(Photos/video are from a trip in Aug 2016 & Sep 2017)
Location: Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula, Hokkaido

Special Thanks : Shiretoko Diving Kikaku 知床ダイビング企画

*Contact  us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.

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Shiretoko Peninsula – Brown Bears Catching Pink Salmon

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (9)

In late August, the Shiretoko Peninsula sees the return of the Pink salmon. However, due to a lack of rainfall, the rivers are too shallow for the salmon to swim upstream. As a result, the fish gather along the shore, in the sea, near the mouth of the river.

This is where the Rausu fishermen set up their nets, as do the brown bears, in the same area. This is the time of year when the brown bears are the most hungry and thinnest. The bears will venture into the ocean to catch the pink salmon that cannot enter the river.

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (12)

This is the scene near “Pekin-no-hana”, on Shiretoko Pennisula with the fishing brown bear. It is like the White-tailed eagle is sitting just behind the bear, as if saying “Hurry up and catch something!” As the bear heads into the ocean…

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (6)

A bear in the sea water.

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (2)

The bear dunks its head into the water over and over, while swimming, to look for the Pink salmon underfoot.

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (10)

It caught a female Pink salmon!

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (8)

The roe, fish eggs, started overflowing with every bite.

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (11)

It is probably too tiring to keep swimming while eating, so the bear heads back to the beach. It was there for a while, munching on the salmon with its backside facing us. After finishing off the main parts, the bear heads back into the sea for another round.

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (1)

The White-tailed eagle quickly moves in to secure the leftover food. Then the crows move in for some leftovers too.

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (4)

Then, just when we thought this bear would return to fishing, it got distracted and started playing with the net buoys! This must have been a young bear that was still holding on to its playful nature. Our customers who were with us, really enjoyed watching the fun-loving cute bear.

知床半島 羅臼 ヒグマ ペキンの鼻 カラフトマス ヒグマ・フォト 知床サライ broen bear in Shiretoko (5)

Eventually, it tired of playing and returned to the beach. It was a lovely chance to catch the last moments of summer with the brown bear.

 

Photography & text : Mariko SAWADA

Special Thanks : Mr.Kokichi TENJIN & Shohei MORITA(SHIRETOKO SERAI(知床サライ)

*Contact  us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.

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(Video) Humpback Whale Watching & Swim in Amami Oshima

This is the highlight reel of the late March Amami Oshima Swim with Whales Tour. The main attraction of Amami Oshima is that you can do both whale watching and swimming here.

Amami Oshima is the main island of the Amami Island chain located between Kagoshima Prefecture in Kyushu and the Okinawa Islands. Every year, humpback whales migrate here from January to March. Some of the whales will stay nearby, while others migrate further south to Okinawa’s main island and the Kerama Islands.
During the whale encounter, we were able to swim with three whales: a one-year old baby whale, it mother, and an escort whale.

奄美大島のザトウクジラ Humpback Whale in Amami Oshima

 

Video: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Mar 2021, Amami Oshima
Special Thanks: Dive Species AMAMI

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Mother and Calf Humpback Whales (Amami Oshima)

奄美大島ホエールスイム Humback Whale Swim in AMAMI OSHIMA (5)

This is a report of the Amami Oshima Whale Watching Tour from early March.

Every year from January to March, the Humpback Whales, which spend their summers of Kamchatka-Aleutian Islands, will spend their winter months in Amami Oshima for breeding. Most of them head south to the Kerama Islands of Okinawa, but whales some stay near the Amami Islands. There, you might be able to encounter mother whales as they are nursing young whales or the male escort whales that will chase after the females in a ‘heat run.’

On this tour, we had some inclement weather so we could only go out to see for 3 of the 5 days. Despite the short time observing, we could manage to see a ‘heat run’ from the boat, as well as see the mother and calf plus an escorting male whale in the water. The calf was about a year old and very active.

奄美大島ホエールスイム Humback Whale Swim in AMAMI OSHIMA (4)

In the morning hours, we couldn’t encounter any whales, but during the afternoon, we were told “There is a wonderful mother and calf out here now” and we rushed to the area. As soon as we could, we were in the water and the pair appeared right in front of us. It is really amazing to see them in person.

奄美大島ホエールスイム Humback Whale Swim in AMAMI OSHIMA (7)

The frolicking yearling calf. It was active, doing tail slaps and pectoral fin slaps at the surface of the water.

奄美大島ホエールスイム Humback Whale Swim in AMAMI OSHIMA (2)

This mother whale was very tolerant and with the escort whale watches the calf very closely. Even when the people were close to her calf. This mother must have experience raising her calves and has perhaps gotten used to humans, too.

奄美大島ホエールスイム Humback Whale Swim in AMAMI OSHIMA (3)

The calf also swam in circles around its mother, showing us its belly. One day, this calf will grow up and leave the Amami Oshima area, moving north as it sets out independently by that time.

奄美大島ホエールスイム Humback Whale Swim in AMAMI OSHIMA (8)

This one shot of the three whales together was a stunning highlight for the day!
Perhaps you are wondering what we did when we couldn’t get out to sea? We went for nature walks in the virgin forests of Kinsakubara, did some birdwatching, explored mangroves by canoe, and searched for the endemic Amami rabbit (Pentalagus furnessi). We could enjoy a full tour of all the beautiful natural areas the Amami Islands has to offer!

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Mar 2021, Amami Oshima, Kyushu
Special Thanks: Dive Species AMAMI

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