Ezo sika deer with the Shiretoko mountain range in the background
The Notsuke Peninsula in the winter has many charms.
One of them was an encounter with the Ezo sika deer, Cervus nippon yesoensis. In the winter, the heavy snowfall causes the deer to face food shortages. The flat Notsuke Peninsula, which juts out into the Nemuro Strait, is well-ventilated with relatively little snowfall, making it a great feeding ground for the Ezo sika deer. Therefore, in winter, you can encounter hundreds of Ezo sika deer all at once.
A group of female Ezo sika deerMale Ezo sika deer
The Notsuke Peninsula is also designated as a wildlife sanctuary, so the Ezo sika deer are not weary of people, therefore close range photography is possible.
In addition, you can see the Shiretoko mountain range and Kunashir Island from the Notsuke Peninsula in good weather. If the visibility is good, you can also see the Akan volcanic complex and Mt. Kamui (also Mt. Mashu). The sun rises behind Kunashir in the morning and then sets on the frozen icy side in the evening, making it an attractive location for photography throughout the day.
View of Kunashir Island (the Northern Territories) in the background
This is located only an hour (one-way) from Shiretoko, Rausu, so it is possible to visit on a day trip, perhaps after an early morning drift ice cruise.
Photo & text: Shohei MORITA (Shiretoko Serai)
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
This year (2022), many Steller’s sea eagles and white-tailed eagles have come to Shiretoko and Rausu to pass the winter. This year, about 300 Steller’s sea eagles and about 120 white-tailed eagles, made a total of 420 birds that were observed at one time.
White-tailed eagle at fishing port in RausuSteller’s sea eagleWhite-tailed eagle in actionSteller’s sea eagle on the drift ice
Rausu has long been used by many eagles during the winter months. A big reason for that is the fishing industry. In winter, cod fishing reaches its peak in the Nemuro Strait between Rausu and Kunashir Island. Until 30-40 years ago, Rausu accounted for nearly half of all Hokkaido catches, with 110,000 tons of fish being caught in 1989, the catch was the highest. At that time, the ships were overflowing with fish, and the eagles were busy eating them. Today the harvest has decreased to about 10,000 tons a year, so the fish no longer overflow from the boats. Now, the tourist boats serve the role that the fishing vessels once did, giving them the fish to eat to help the Eagles survive the winter.
Steller’s Sea Eagles and White-tailed Eagles gathered around the tourist boats.White-tailed eagle on the drift iceWhite-tailed eagle on the drift iceSteller’s sea eagle on the drift ice
Photography & text : Kaito IMAHORI (Shiretoko Serai)
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have our guesthouse Shiretoko Serai in Rausu on the Shiretoko Peninsula.
Please see other article from Kaito IMAHORI about Wildlife of Hokkaido
Our guesthouse in Rausu, Shiretoko Serai’s Nature guide, Shouhei Morita sent us a report from the 2021 Summer Season. It is actually not a wildlife report, but an article about ‘Local Foods’ of Rausu where we can introduce more about the bounties of the sea.
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Unfortunately, this year the Shiretoko summer season experienced a smaller catch of fish then usual.
Since kelp is harvested every 2 years, based on the growth rates from one year, the fishermen predicted that “Sadly, next year’s harvest will not yield very much.”
The harvest is conducted from late July to the end of August. During the kelp harvest, you can see the kelp lined up on the stone beach on the way to the Aidomari fishing port, only 25 minutes away from central Rausu by car. At its peak, the whole town is wrapped in the nice scent of kelp.
Rausu kelp, which is treated as the finest product in Japan, is carefully produced by hand for a majority of the 23 processes, with the whole family pitching in. The white powder on the surface of the kelp is not mold, but is another product. It is a sugar called Mannitol, which is sweet and umami ingredients.
One of the things that makes Rausu kelp special is this white powder on the surface. This year was a not a very good year, and only a small quantity of high quality kelp could be shipped out.
In recent years, kelp has finally been recognized world-wide. Rausu kelp contains plenty of marine minerals from Shiretoko. It is a unique sight of “Rausu’s fishing village,” where we can see the kelp being processed and harvested up close.
Photo & text: Shohei MORITA (Shiretoko Serai)
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
On the 3rd day of our tour, I went in search of the Snow Goose just before daybreak. Just upon my arrival, I heard the noise and when I looked out, the geese were flying all around me!
Flocks of Snow Goose and Cackling Goose
I went down to the wetland, and could see many Snow Geese and Cackling Geese. Over and over again, I could see about 1000 Snow Geese swirling over my head, as they took flight and landed. It was a relatively short distance away and I could observe them from the car, so it was a great time.
Snow Geese taking flight
In the afternoon of the second day at that location, I went to observe the Ural Owl, but unfortunately, I could not find it. In the park, I saw the Hokkaido Squirrel, running about and they were so cute.
Hokkaido SquirrelHokkaido Squirrel
Again in the evening, I went in search of the flocks of Cackling Goose, but they were in a totally different spot. The evening light shone on them beautifully as they were spread out across the open field.
Flock of Cackling GooseThe Snow Geese and Cackling Geese flying at dusk
On the 4th day, we went in search of the pikas in the mountains. When I was waiting quietly in the morning, I could hear it calling and could make a sighting as well! While I was there, I heard a noise of rustling in the distance and saw a brown bear, so decided to descend from the mountain for safety. Then as we neared our car, and did a quick search nearby, we found another pika and everyone in the group could see it! We were so elated!
PikaPika
After we descended from the mountain, we looked for the Hokkaido squirrel in the afternoon. I was able to capture this lovely moment of a little squirrel standing on a carpet of yellow leaves of the Ginko trees.
Hokkaido Squirrel
In the evening, upon the request of one of the group members, I went looking for a Hazel Grouse. I couldn’t get a good photo, but we did get a great chance to see a male Hazel Grouse take flight directly in front of us. We ended this day watching the sunset from the observatory, as it silhouetted the Hidaka Mountain range.
Silhouetted Hidaka Mountain range
On the final day of the tour, I set out before sunrise to catch the flocks of snow geese, but the swamp was so quiet. When the sun rose, we could see there were no geese in the water. It seems they all returned to the mainland sometime in the evening the day before! It was too bad we could not see them on our final day, but as we looked out over the quiet wetlands, I offered a prayer that they could all safely navigate their migration ahead.
Sunrise over the wetlands
As a final stop, we stopped in Obihiro City’s park to look for some more bird species. We were looking for bird species that we still had not yet seen, like the Great Spotted Woodpecker, Marsh Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch, which we were able to see. We even got to see another Hokkaido Squirrel.
Great Spotted WoodpeckerMarsh TitEurasian Nuthatch
We were able to see a total of 7 species of Geese during the tour. It is only in Hokkaido that you can see all the species that can be found in Japan, in one single tour. And easily, at that, if you move from location to location in time to see their migrations. In the spring, the geese will come back where there is still snow on the ground, so please come then to see them! Thanks for reading this report and hope to see you here!
Photo & text: Kaito IMAHORI
Tour date: 26-30 Oct 2021, Tokachi, Hokkaido
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
Arrived at the Notsuke Peninsula. The main purpose of this tour is to observe a particular species of goose. The Notsuke Peninsula is a famous migration stopover for the Brant Goose, which is designated as a National Natural Monument, and up to about 5,000 birds can be seen at this location. Looking out at Notsuke Bay, there are many black and slightly larger birds at the surface! Immediately, we accomplished our goal, to see the Brant. There are many spread far apart, but a quick count reveals a flock of over 1000 birds.
Whooper swans foraging with the Brant Geese nearby
After further observation, a white colored swan is mixed in with the Brandt. When I was trying to confirm the new species we were seeing, there, mixed in with the Whooper Swans, were actually two individuals of the flock that were slightly smaller and had a round yellow pattern on the beak. They are the Tundra swan. So this confirmation made it the third type of waterfowl observed.
Tundra swan
As we went up the shoreline, there were other wintering birds, the Glaucous Gulls up on the shore. Can you see a difference in the two species that are there, the more common species of Hokkaido, the Slaty-backed Gulls (with the darker wings), and their size is different as well.
Glaucous Gull
On our return trip we further enjoyed the Notsuke Penninsula, as we saw red foxes, and a male deer chasing after a female deer. We headed to Nemuro feeling fulfilled.
Hokkaido Red FoxThe male deer chasing after the female deer
On the second day of the tour, we started from Lake Sunset, our inn on the Shores of Lake Furen.
Very close by is the Shunkunitai Wild Bird Sanctuary, where we could observe from a distance a pair of Red-crowned Cranes and a flock of Northern Pintails. From here, we drove to Tsuri Village. We made a short detour along the way to observe a Ural Owl. Then, during lunch, a Eurasian Sparrowhawk showed up and gave us a nice long arcing swirl overhead.
Eurasian Sparrowhawk
From the afternoon, we moved to observe the Japanese cranes in Tsurui Village. The autumn leaves were finishing their color show, but the yellow leaves of the Japanese larch still remained and were very beautiful.
Red-crowned CranesThe cranes taking flightThe Red crowned crane’s mating dance
Towards the end, the two cranes did their mating dance, and it was the best closing act!
We watched over our shoulders as the last of the cranes flew off, and we headed to Tokachi.
Photo ＆Text: Kaito IMAHORI
Tour date: 26-30 Oct 2021, Notsuke Peninsula, Lake Furen, Tsurui village
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
Our guestouse in Rausu, Shiretoko Serai’s nature guide, Shohei Morita wrote a report from the 2021 Summer Season!
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This year I could see many brown bears!
Along the Shiretoko Pass which connects Rausu to Utoro, I could see brown bears many times along the way. Due to the pandemic and its effects, this year the tourists coming to Shiretoko Peninsula was much less than usual, so we had less traffic, compared to before.
Also, I could see many brown bears on the boat cruises that leave from Rausu’s Aidomari fishing port. We used the small boat that is usually used for Kelp farming, and I was able to get this shot of the bear from the boat. From summer to autumn, brown bears are attracted to the small rivers along the coast to catch the salmon run.
A bear with a salmon
Year after year, the number of salmon are decreasing while the number of fishermen continues to increase. This makes the situation difficult and a lot of stress on the bears. But despite that, I saw a momma bear teaching her cub how to catch salmon.
There was an unusual encounter with the carcass of a whale washed ashore, and the brown bears gathered around it. It is said that it has been more than 10 years since a large whale had been washed ashore.
It is a large whale, perhaps either a fin whale or a humpback whale.
This is a mother bear with her two cubs who had been born this year. This year’s bad fishing year made the national news, but locally, for the fisherman and especially for the brown bears, it was a big blow. I just hope that this abnormal situation in the sea will end as soon as possible, and that there can be a return of the “Rich seas of Shiretoko.”
And I hope that these two cubs can survive the winter.
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
The 2021 Report from the Summer Season is here! Written by Shiretoko Serai (Our guesthouse in Rausu)’s Nature Guide, Kaito Imahori.
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There were more than 100 Killer Whales that visited Rausu. The Nemuro Strait, located between Rausu and Kunashiri Island, has had multiple families of whales visit every year starting from around May, to the end of July. The latest research suggests that the Nemuro Strait, may perhaps be a meeting place for the different groups so they can look for future partners.
This is a resident pod that is fishing together, which have downward pointing white patches around their eyes.
In the beginning of June 2021, I was able to observe a significant and amazing sight! We found a family pod of three mothers with a newborn child, near Rausu Port. While running side by side with this group in the sightseeing boat, I saw many unusual behaviors, such as a mother swimming upside down to feed her baby breast milk, just near the boat.
I also encountered another great scene this year. It was in mid-June, when I could see a gathering of 4 family groups at once, perhaps they were in the process of mating, but the males were swimming upside down with their penis out, courting the females from the other pod.
Even though I could not capture it in a photo, there was also another event worth noting that happened in late July. There were 2 white killer whales, a male and a female who appeared at the same time, which became major news. There are only a few places in the world where you can observe whales so closely, but it is because so many whales gather in Rausu, that you might see such unique and rare scenes like these.
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
This is a winter report from the Shiretoko Peninsula, Rausu (Hokkaido).
This year the drift ice season in Rausu was very short. The morning we arrived in Rausu, the staff at the lodging, Shiretoko Serai informed us right away, “Until last night, the conditions for the drift ice were very good, but the westerly wind is blowing, so its possible the drift ice might be gone by night time.”
Due to the strong winds, the dawn cruise was cancelled, but luckily we could get a 9am cruise where we could see the Port of Rausu full of drift ice.
This is how it looks in the Fishing Port of Rausu with the accumulated Drift Ice. There are Steller’s Sea Eagles and White-tailed Eagles feeding in the photo. If one takes the photo zoomed in, without the port in the background, you can get surprisingly great photos that make the eagles look like they are in a very natural spot.
Image & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Feb 2021, Rausu, Hokkaido
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
The Drift Ice Cruise of Rausu, Hokkaido. This year the drift ice arrived in Rausu around mid-February. This is a photo from a Drift Ice Cruise on March 5. From the day before, it was windy, and the drift ice moved towards the cape on the Shiretoko Peninsula.
We had chartered our boat for the Saiyu Travel’s “Photography Tour of Eastern Hokkaido in Winter” and we headed to sea in our Boat “Ohwashi.” The captain told us, “The drift ice has moved quite a bit, but let’s go check it out. If we travel for about an hour, we will be able to see it probably.”
Just before daybreak, we could see Kunashiri Island (Northern Territory, an island effectively under Russia) we could see a Steller’s Sea Eagle on the ice.
It’s Daybreak.
Sunrise with Kunashiri Island, the ice, and Sea eagles. The morning in Rausu is so breathtaking.
The surface of the sea had shards of ice floating and reflecting the sun like pieces of glass.
The mountains of Shiretoko as a backdrop to the Steller’s Sea Eagle.
The Sea eagle flying to the sea.
The sea eagle locked on to a fish.
The Sea eagles hitch a ride on the floating drift ice off the coast of Rausu.
Once a Sea eagle catches a fish that is thrown from the boat, it flies away. Then another bird will appear to fill the vacant spot.
The remaining bits of drift ice offer a precious place for rest, and they are competing for space on it.
The Steller’s sea eagles eating their fish on the drift ice.
Our boat ran to the Cape Shiretoko and we could finally see the massive drift ice collected there! Steller’s sea eagles were also sitting there as well!
From here on, there is nothing but drift ice. It looks like maybe it continues all the way to Kunashiri Island.
A Stellter’s sea eagle on the drift ice. Then, we heard from the captain, that the wind and waves were getting stronger, so we will turn back here.
The sea of Rausu in the early morning. It was a spectacular time with the Steller’s sea eagles and gulls doing their dance on the drift ice.
Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: March 2017, Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula, Hokkaido
Special Thanks: Captain of the Ohwashi, Mr. KAWABATA and the crew
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
This is a Steller’s Sea Eagle that we observed during a Drift Ice Cruise from Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula. It is such a handsome looking bird of prey, with white wings, a white tail, and a large yellow beak and yellow legs.
When open, the wingspan measures 220 to 250cm (7.2 – 8.2 feet), and the weight can be heavy from 5 to 9 kg (11-20 lbs), and the females are usually a bit larger than the males.
They breed on the coasts of the Sea of Okhotsk and the coast of Kamchatka Peninsula, and in the winter a small part of that population will come to the southern part of the Kuril Islands and Hokkaido. There are about 3,200 pairs in the world, and about 2,000 individuals are thought to migrate to Hokkaido for the winter.
The name “Steller’s Sea Eagle” came from the German naturalist Georg Wilhelm Steller.
Steller was of German but he joined the Russian expedition of Vitus Bering who set out to explore the Kamchatka Peninsula and the Aleutian Islands. In 1741, after Bering died of illness on Bering Island, now part of the Commander Islands, the remaining crew and Steller were able to escape and returned home to tell the world of the newly discovered sea animals, such as the Steller’s sea cow and the seabirds living in the area.
Then, as an unfortunate result of being “discovered,” the Steller’s sea cow was overfished and gone extinct within only 27 years of its discovery. Spectacled cormorants were also extinct by 1852.
The reconstructed skeleton of the Steller’s sea cow on display in a private gallery on Bearing Island, Commander Islands.
Returning to the Steller’s sea eagles, they spend the winter in Hokkaido and move back north in the first week of March. It is thought that these Sea eagles did not originally migrate long distances, but came floating on the drift ice to Hokkaido and the Kuril Islands. Then they would return to their breeding grounds for the courtship season. They will lay 1-3 eggs between April to May.
The Steller’s sea eagles against the backdrop of the town of Rausu. Soon, they will be heading back North.
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
